Auschwitz, Poland.

Entrance to Auschwitz.

In January 2010, sixty five years after it's liberation, Emma and I went to visit Auschwitz Concentration Camp. Auschwitz is about a two hour bus journey from Krakow in the middle of the Polish countryside. It is a place that has always fascinated me.  Over a million people were murdered by the Nazis in this death camp during the Second World War. Auschwitz is a chilling memorial to the Jews, gypsies, Slavs, homosexuals, communists and other minority groups who were murdered within the barbed wire fences of this death camp. Auchwitz is broken up into two camps, Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II Birkenau.



Emma at one of the many watch towers that guards
the former death camp.

The day of our visit to the former Nazi death camp, was freezing. Emma and I both wore a few layers of tops, jumpers and coats and we were still freezing. My fingers felt like they were being stabbed with knives of ice every time I took off my gloves to take a picture. Our hats were pulled down over our ears to protect them from the chilling breeze and our scarves were wrapped tightly around our necks. The horrific thing is, in January 1945, thousands of people were made to walk out of the camps inappropriately dressed for the weather. Flimsy, light, pyjames-like clothing that offered no protection from the January weather. History remembers these forced treks through the snow as the Death Marches. Everytime that I hastily put my gloves back on or I fixed my scarf around my neck, I thought of the thousands of people in their thin garments, their bodies exposed to the cruel and biting elements.





This picture captures a sense of the bleakness.
The barracks seem to go on for miles.

As part of our organised tour, Emma and I were given a guided tour around the two camps. We first went to Auschwitz I. We were led through the gates with their infamously ironic slogan, "Arbeit Macht Frei", work makes you free. Incidentally, the week before our visit, the orginal cast iron sign had been stolen.  We entered the parade ground where the 'selections' were made. These selections, made by Nazi doctors, decided the fate of thousands. Some were sent to work, other sent directly to the gas chambers. We visited a number of the former barracks  that now house exhibitions. In one room, we were left speechless to discover a glass case full of human hair. When the Soviets liberated the camp, they found about 7000kg of hair in bags. The Nazis had shaven the heads of their victims and used it to make household items such as pillows. This part of the tour was the most chilling for me. Various barracks house exhibitions dedicated to the memory of persecuted nationalities. The gas chambers are still in tact and tour groups are actually brought down into them. Inside you can not help but feel unnerved by the eerie knowledge that thousands were murdered here every day.

Entrance to Auschwitz Birkeneau.
Check out how many layers I had on! Imagine
wearing pyjames-like clothing in this weather!

A short bus journey takes you to the second part of the Auschwitz camp. Here you can see the train tracks, watch towers and infinite rows of barracks. Each wooden barracks contains bunk beds, three stories high and a small stove used to (ineffectively) heat the room. Hundreds of people were cramped into these filthy barracks. Disease and hunger combining to intensify the horrors endured. This particular area is very eerie and the guides will tell you some horrific stories of death and survivial behind the wire fences.

It is a cliche, I know, but words are not enough when it comes to describing Auschwitz. I would highly recommend it and I think it is important that people visit places like this. Excuses like 'it is too depressing' are weak and pathetic compared with the suffering that individuals experienced here during the time of the Nazi reign of terror. Despite it's awful history, today at Auschwitz, one does get a sense of peace about the place. This dark chapter in the European history books has been dealt with and continues to be confronted and discussed with every visitor that passes under the ominious 'Arbeit Macht Frei' sign.

 

Let's Goa!!

Sunset on Palolem Beach

Everyone dreams of a beach getaway. Cool blue water lapping the golden shore, palm trees stretching up to the azure blue sky and beach huts nestled amongst the palms. I found this paradise in Palolem Beach in South Goa.Palolem Beach is a tranquil contrast to the much busier beach resorts in Goa. It is a secluded beach located between two headlands. 



In the shade of the leafy palm trees, the beach lover can find small beach huts erected from bamboo. Most of the beach huts are en suite with beds draped in mosquito nets. 

Quaint little beach huts.

Waking up in these modest cabins and listening to the waves crashing on the shore immerses the traveller in a deep-seated feeling of relaxation which for me, was an unexpected delight in India. We stayed at the Hi Tide Coco Huts where the accommodating staff made us feel very welcome and were only too delighted to share this paradise with us.

The water is very clear and shallow for about 100 metres out making it very safe for swimming.On top of the head land, is the best place to enjoy the colourful Goan sunset. Here, a small restaurant perched on the rock, one can sample fresh seafood like shark and calamari. The night life in this area is relaxed and confined to the small beach shacks but for me it was a refreshing escape from the more commericalised resorts.

Ambling along the beach, you can find places to rent kayaks and snorkeling equipment at a very reasonable price. Bamboo shacks selling cool beverages, like their local beer Kingfisher, are plentiful and welcomed on the hot Goan beach.



Early morning swim

Palolem Beach is one of the most peaceful and relaxing beach memories I have. It truly is one of Goa's best kept secrets. A serene Shangri La, sheltered by the palms and caressed by the sea. 

Karama Crazy!!



Bargain hunting in Dubai... Feels very
much like a covert operation!

So Emma and I took a shopping trip to Dubai last month. If you have ever been to Dubai, you can't help but be either fascinated (or in some cases replused) by this fashionable and sophisticated city in the desert. The Middle East's shopping and fashion capital!  Dubai is home to two of the largest malls in the Middle East, Dubai Mall and Mall of the Emirates. Dubai Mall famous for it's aquarium and Mall of the emirates infamous for it's indoor skiing slope. In terms of shops, you can find anything! From the high street stores like H&M and  Top Shop to the opulant fashion houses of Versace, Michael Kors and Gucci. You'll find them all in Dubai.

Where're the shoes?

Despite this, Emma and I were in Dubai for,  one very special reason. We wanted to find the illusive Karama! The home of imitation designer products We jumped in a taxi at Mall of the Emirates and asked him to take us to Karama. One of the best things about Dubai is that all the taxis are metred (and cheap!!). It cost us 70 Dirham (about 14e) to get to Karama. It is worth noting that on Fridays, the shops at Karama do not start to open until after 3pm. The area of Karama is a series of small shops selling copies of designer goods. The copies are still expensive. However, they are still a fraction of the cost of the real thing. An imitation Michael Kors bag, for example cost about 400 Dirham (80 euro) which is still a fraction of the price you would pay at the mall. 





Who knew that behind

        this door you'd find...

But Emma wanted to get shoes. And all we could find were bag shop upon bag shop. We kept asking people in the different shops where the shoe shops were until finally, one guy told us to follow him. We followed him out of the shop, down the road to a tall building. We went up a lift, (at this point we were more than a little Scooby dubious as to where he was leading us to!) and got out on the second floor. The second floor was a long, white corridor with doors off it. The man knocked on one of the doors and you could hear bolts being opened inside. (Yep, the fear of being sold into a particular profession was high!) Emma and I looked at each other nervously and went in.

...All of this!

We were both pleasantly surprised when we went inside and were greeted by what could only described as a secret showroom of thousands of handbags, shoes, belts and other accessories. The apartment was tastefully decorated with chandelliers, chairs and display case upon display case of illuminated handbags and shoes. There were many efficient sales attendants there to help with queries on sizes and colours. Emma and I were there for about two hours wandering around the different rooms off the main showroom. The show room was home to  D&G,  Mulberry, Michael Kors, Chanel and Dior copies to name but a few. Bargaining is expected here so don't be shy! Emma got a gorgeous pair of red, imitation,Versace heels and a pair of  Michael Kors ballet pumps for a really good price. It is important to remember that these are imitation so do not spend too much on those coveted heels!

When we were finished browsing around this strange show room, we paid for Emma's shoes and left through the big white door. The door was bolted behind us. We just stood there for a second or two completely incredulous of the accesssory wonder land that we had just been privy too. A very strange but memorable experience!



Emma's Versace heels!