The Illusive Great Wall...

The cable car station to the Wall.

The Great Wall of China... One of the most famous architectural feats in the world. It spans some 6,000 km across China and was built to keep the Mongols out of China. Allegedly the only man made structure visible from space, even though in my scooby dubious opinion I sincerely doubt it, as the day we (finally) got there, we could barely see it with all the fog! Nevertheless, it was top of the list of things Sharon, Rob and I wanted to see on our two week break in China.

In the cable car on
the way to the top!
Misty!

There are a few options of travelling to the Great Wall including private tour groups, trains or by private car. We decided to get the subway as far as Xizhimen and link up with the train service there to Badaling. The train from Xizhimen to Badaling costs a tiny fee of 6 Chinese Yuan (about 73 cent) and runs every hour or two.  The journey takes about one and half hours. However, by the time we got there, all the train tickets were sold out and we were told we could not purchase any for the next day. You can only buy the tickets on the day of departure. It was ok though, we agreed that we would come back the next day at 8am to buy tickets and go see the wall then. So the day before we were due to fly home, we got up early, got the subway to  Xizhemen and arrived at the ticket office at 8am only to be told that all the tickets had sold out for the trains up until 1pm. Completely crestfallen and in no mood to wait on a train until 1pm that would more than likely be full, we sat down and weighed up our options. There were a number of ticket touts outside the train station selling trips to the Great Wall and we were considering going with them. It was our last day and last chance to go to the illusive Great Wall and we were desperate so we decided to take a chance and go bargain a price for the trip up.

Sharon on the Great Wall with
the cable cars in the background.

Through a combination of some wonderful signing, walking away apparently appalled and unscrupulous playing off of the touts, we finally negotiated a price extortionate to many natives. We jumped in a very well kept car with a driver, to begin our journey to the wall. We were very excited to be finally on our way singing "Ba da ling, ba da da.." (Incidentally, does anyone know the proper words to that dance song?) However, to cut a very long story short, the driver had other intentions. He tried to get us to pay more than we'd previously agreed as his car was 'a lovely car'. This highly subjective view did not entice us to pay the extra money so what ensued was a ridiculous argument (translated by a friend on his phone! I felt like Bam Ki Moon!) and him threatening to throw us out on the side of the motorway! After about twenty minutes of arguing, the guys and I decided we would just give in and pay the money (He wanted the whole sum upfront before we went any further). We told him, through the translator, that we wanted all of his ID if we were going to pay the full fare. He agreed to this and we were on our way again. The rest of the journey was in silence apart from a sporadic whispered debate as to whether or not we should throw the ID off the Great Wall. Don't worry we didn't!

Descending the Wall.. Steep enough like!

After that less than pleasant experience in the car, we finally arrived at the Badaling section of the Wall. We paid about €14 for our entrance fee to the Wall along with a return cable car ride to the top. There are number of sections of the Great Wall you can visit including Mutianyu, Jiankou and Badaling. We chose to go to Badaling, the part of the wall that is best preserved. Unfortunately, this meant that it was full of tourists, long lines and crass gift shops. It was a very misty day as we got the cable car to the top of the wall. I would imagine that on a clear day the views would be spectacular! 

Check out the crowd behind me!

The cable car glided through the mist at an impressive speed over the valley and before long we could see the outline of the Great Wall. The Great Wall itself was a very steep climb! There were hundreds of people walking up to the top where there was a watch tower. If you're claustrophobic or afraid of heights, this definitely would not be the place for you! There were mad crowds of people and even stopping to take a photo was difficult with the sheer volume of tourists everywhere. The view from the top was disappointing due to the mist but at least we could say that we finally made it to The Great Wall of China. 

Selfie of Rob, Sharon and I
 coming down off the Wall.

When we got back to the car our friend was waiting, thankfully so we returned his ID and began our way back to Beijing. So if there is one thing that I learned from the whole Great Wall experience it is this... Sometimes, it is best to go on an organised tour or else you could regrettably end up out of pocket and disappointed like the three of us. But in fairness, it isn't a backpacking tale unless you've been done out of a few euro at least once!

Agoda versus Booking

So on my recent trek around China with Rob and Sharon, we met with a number of challenges when organising accommodation in the different areas we visited.  I have both booking.com and agoda.com downloaded to my Iphone for hotel/hostel booking on the go. So here is my opinion on the pros and cons of using these websites.

Agoda

• Agoda has a great app for smartphones and the website is very user friendly.
• Agoda offers travellers pictures, descriptions and reviews of hotels which gives a frank and honest account of each place.
• You pay for the accommodation straight away.
• They have a good refund policy if the accommodation is not what the website described. We stayed in a place in Beijing that said it had three beds per room. On arriving we discovered the room was tiny and with three beds in the room there would not have been enough room for even one suitcase!!! On calling Agoda, the lady on the helpline was bilingual and could speak both English to me and Chinese to the hotel receptionist.
• Writing reviews for Agoda accommodation allows you to build up points to use to avail of offers for hotels/ hostels.
• An email is sent to you with confirmation of your booking. 
• You can print this or present your phone to the accommodation as proof of booking.

Booking.com

• Booking.com also have a very accessible website and a great smartphone app.
• Booking.com also gives an account of the various accomodation options. 
• Your credit card merely reserves the booking. If you cancel less than two days before the price of the first night is charged to your card.
• You pay for the accommodation on arrival. This is a great option as if you don't like the accommodation then you don't have to stay and part with your money. Agoda on the oth1er hand you need to go through the rigmarole of getting a refund and at that the total amount is not refunded to you.
• The thing I liked most about Booking.com is that when they email you confirmation of your booking, they give you the hotel's address and phone number in English and in the local language. This was particularly handy in China where most people do not have English (and we certainly didn't have Chinese!).

Verdict?

I've used both websites for a number of different trips in different countries and both have their merits. With all the pros and cons weighed up, however, I would highly recommend booking.com for the simple fact that you don't pay until you get to your destination and that they provide the best details in their confirmation email. This, in a country like China, proved an invaluable asset!

Khoa San Road, Bangkok.



Monks and Partiers outside Center Khao San at 6am

Khao San Road... When I read about it in the guide books and online and I imagined it to be a long street of bars and stalls selling souvenirs. When I watched 'The Hangover 2', I imagined that Khao San Road would be similar to that scene where the riot breaks out. And to be honest, that is a pretty accurate representation! It is a small street with stalls and bars, yes. But it is literally one of the craziest places I've ever been on my travels. A myriad of travellers from all over the world coming to sample the infamous madness (and street food) of Khao San Road. 

 

Top Ten Tips for Khoa San Road:

 

I'll never look at a sand bucket the same way again!

1. Stay at D&D Inn on Khao San Road.You'll be right in the middle of the action. The rooms are basic with air conditioning and private bathrooms attached. There is a pool on the roof and a restaurant serving continental breakfast in the morning.
2. Veer off onto Susie Walking Street for some really good restaurants serving cuisine from all around the world.
3. Drink from a sand bucket... Cast away those memories of making sandcastles on the beach back home. In Thailand, a sand bucket should be filled with Sang Som.
4. Get yourself an illuminious wrist band! Some of the slogans written on them might offend some people so maybe get rid of it before you leave Khao San Road.
5. Stock up on Imodium! Thailand is notorious for sick tummies! There's even a Boots chemist on Khao San Road.
6. Don't fall into the trap of getting your fortune read! Some guy tried to extort $50 out of me to tell me my fortune and when I refused he told me I was terminally ill! Not a pleasant experience!  
7. Eat some street food! You get everything along the street from Pad Thai to fried crickets and tentacles. But if street food isn't your style, there is also a McDonald's, KFC and 7Eleven (really good toasted sandwiches!) along Khao San.
   

   

   Massages and Chang at 5am!

8. "You want ping pong show?" And no, it is not a table tennis tournament like one friend thought! 
9. Get yourself a massage! Want a break from the madness? There are plenty of places along Khoa San that offer massages. We got one at 5am while we sipped on bottles of Chang.
10. People watch at Center Khao San Road. This bar has a large seating area on the street and opens 24 hours. It really the best place to observe the weird and the wonderful of Khao San Road.

 
 

Full Moon Madness!



Chilling on our porch.

August 2012. Aoife, Sharon and I had already been travelling around Thailand  for two weeks when we finally rocked up to Ko Pha-ngan. Like everyone else on the ferry, we were on our way there from Ko Samui for the Full Moon Party. 

We had booked into a bungalow located about a fifteen minute walk from the beach where the Full Moon Party was due to take place. Because this is an extremely busy time for hostel/ bungalows/ hotels on the island, a lot of accommodation stipulate that you can only block book. As a result, we had to book five nights on the island. Some people can be lucky and just get accommodation when they arrive and others choose to stay on the Koh Samui and commute by ferry on the night. We stayed in Charung Bungalows. We paid about 17 euro a night for this accommodation (during the rest of the month, it starts at five euro per person for a private room.)Make sure to buy a good lock and key for your shallet door as most doors do not have locks on them. The accommodation was extremely basic and grubby but the location was perfect. We were on the sunset side of Haad Rin beach which was quiet but still in easy walking distance of the party.


Haad Rin Beach with Mushy Mountain in the background.

Sandbuckets!!!

The nights leading up to the party were a party reveller's dream. One night we went down the beach and sat on the sand drinking Chang beer and buckets of Sang Som whiskey. Yes, you read it right... BUCKETS of whiskey!! After our trip to Thailand I don't think I'll every look at a sand bucket the same way again! One night we went to a pool party nearby which was just anarchy! Another night there was a jungle party. These events are publicised and there is generally transport taking convoys of partiers there.

The week long of partying culminates with the Full Moon Party on Haad Rin beach. So the dress code for the Full Moon Party... basically anything neon goes and coat yourself in neon body paint!! Koh Pha-ngan is littered with shops selling these blinding colours so don't panick if your backpack isn't brimming with neon. The girls and I thought we were crazy with neon paint smeared across our faces and arms but some people take their body painting very seriously and have themselves congealed in the stuff!
The night of the Full Moon Party the beach was mobbed!! A few thousand people of all ages descended on the beach for the ensuing madness. The atmosphere was electric with people dancing on the sand and DJs playing all genres of music throughout the night. All along the beach, you can purchase drink from different stalls boasting special offers on buckets of alcohol. People of all nationalities mix easily and if you go in a small group you'll be sure to meet lots of other people. Solo travellers were common but to be honest I think as a woman I would prefer to go with someone.


Paul, Aoife, Sharon and myself ready to hit the beach!

Unfortunately, when we were on Koh Pha-ngan, we heard a lot of horror stories of drinks being spiked and people getting hurt. (you will notice there are a lot of medical centres on the island!!)  As long as you are careful, don't leave drinks unattended and stick with your friends, you will enjoy the week of the Full Moon Party as much as we did.

Travel Essential- Lonely Planet Guide

Lonely Planet book is an essential!!

So we've booked our flights! Who knew it would be cheaper to fly from Dublin to Beijing rather than going Muscat to Beijing! Flying Dublin to Beijing June 23 with Lufthansa. What do you think is the thing I do immediately after booking my flights? Get my Lonely Planet Guide for Beijing!

I got my Lonely Planet book the other day for 6 Riyal (around 12 euro). Nothing makes me more excited than going to the book shop and picking up the Lonely Planet edition for that particular country or city. When we went to Thailand, I had the girls driven crazy with 'What does Lonely Planet say?' and 'I'll just check my Lonely Planet book'.

In case you don't know what the Lonely Planet books are, let me tell you. They are a series of travel books dedicated to informing the traveller about their chosen destination. These guides offer advice and information on everything from where to stay to where to eat, things to do to attractions. They even offer basic phrases in the language of the country. In terms of accommodation and places to eat, the books inform you of places with different budgets in mind. The books are frank and honest in the information they supply which helps travellers to make informed decisions.

They really are a travel essential worth spending a bit of money on. I know I can not wait to start reading up on Beijing!!

 

#lonelyplanet

#travelblogger

#beijing

Auschwitz, Poland.

Entrance to Auschwitz.

In January 2010, sixty five years after it's liberation, Emma and I went to visit Auschwitz Concentration Camp. Auschwitz is about a two hour bus journey from Krakow in the middle of the Polish countryside. It is a place that has always fascinated me.  Over a million people were murdered by the Nazis in this death camp during the Second World War. Auschwitz is a chilling memorial to the Jews, gypsies, Slavs, homosexuals, communists and other minority groups who were murdered within the barbed wire fences of this death camp. Auchwitz is broken up into two camps, Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II Birkenau.



Emma at one of the many watch towers that guards
the former death camp.

The day of our visit to the former Nazi death camp, was freezing. Emma and I both wore a few layers of tops, jumpers and coats and we were still freezing. My fingers felt like they were being stabbed with knives of ice every time I took off my gloves to take a picture. Our hats were pulled down over our ears to protect them from the chilling breeze and our scarves were wrapped tightly around our necks. The horrific thing is, in January 1945, thousands of people were made to walk out of the camps inappropriately dressed for the weather. Flimsy, light, pyjames-like clothing that offered no protection from the January weather. History remembers these forced treks through the snow as the Death Marches. Everytime that I hastily put my gloves back on or I fixed my scarf around my neck, I thought of the thousands of people in their thin garments, their bodies exposed to the cruel and biting elements.





This picture captures a sense of the bleakness.
The barracks seem to go on for miles.

As part of our organised tour, Emma and I were given a guided tour around the two camps. We first went to Auschwitz I. We were led through the gates with their infamously ironic slogan, "Arbeit Macht Frei", work makes you free. Incidentally, the week before our visit, the orginal cast iron sign had been stolen.  We entered the parade ground where the 'selections' were made. These selections, made by Nazi doctors, decided the fate of thousands. Some were sent to work, other sent directly to the gas chambers. We visited a number of the former barracks  that now house exhibitions. In one room, we were left speechless to discover a glass case full of human hair. When the Soviets liberated the camp, they found about 7000kg of hair in bags. The Nazis had shaven the heads of their victims and used it to make household items such as pillows. This part of the tour was the most chilling for me. Various barracks house exhibitions dedicated to the memory of persecuted nationalities. The gas chambers are still in tact and tour groups are actually brought down into them. Inside you can not help but feel unnerved by the eerie knowledge that thousands were murdered here every day.

Entrance to Auschwitz Birkeneau.
Check out how many layers I had on! Imagine
wearing pyjames-like clothing in this weather!

A short bus journey takes you to the second part of the Auschwitz camp. Here you can see the train tracks, watch towers and infinite rows of barracks. Each wooden barracks contains bunk beds, three stories high and a small stove used to (ineffectively) heat the room. Hundreds of people were cramped into these filthy barracks. Disease and hunger combining to intensify the horrors endured. This particular area is very eerie and the guides will tell you some horrific stories of death and survivial behind the wire fences.

It is a cliche, I know, but words are not enough when it comes to describing Auschwitz. I would highly recommend it and I think it is important that people visit places like this. Excuses like 'it is too depressing' are weak and pathetic compared with the suffering that individuals experienced here during the time of the Nazi reign of terror. Despite it's awful history, today at Auschwitz, one does get a sense of peace about the place. This dark chapter in the European history books has been dealt with and continues to be confronted and discussed with every visitor that passes under the ominious 'Arbeit Macht Frei' sign.

 

Let's Goa!!

Sunset on Palolem Beach

Everyone dreams of a beach getaway. Cool blue water lapping the golden shore, palm trees stretching up to the azure blue sky and beach huts nestled amongst the palms. I found this paradise in Palolem Beach in South Goa.Palolem Beach is a tranquil contrast to the much busier beach resorts in Goa. It is a secluded beach located between two headlands. 



In the shade of the leafy palm trees, the beach lover can find small beach huts erected from bamboo. Most of the beach huts are en suite with beds draped in mosquito nets. 

Quaint little beach huts.

Waking up in these modest cabins and listening to the waves crashing on the shore immerses the traveller in a deep-seated feeling of relaxation which for me, was an unexpected delight in India. We stayed at the Hi Tide Coco Huts where the accommodating staff made us feel very welcome and were only too delighted to share this paradise with us.

The water is very clear and shallow for about 100 metres out making it very safe for swimming.On top of the head land, is the best place to enjoy the colourful Goan sunset. Here, a small restaurant perched on the rock, one can sample fresh seafood like shark and calamari. The night life in this area is relaxed and confined to the small beach shacks but for me it was a refreshing escape from the more commericalised resorts.

Ambling along the beach, you can find places to rent kayaks and snorkeling equipment at a very reasonable price. Bamboo shacks selling cool beverages, like their local beer Kingfisher, are plentiful and welcomed on the hot Goan beach.



Early morning swim

Palolem Beach is one of the most peaceful and relaxing beach memories I have. It truly is one of Goa's best kept secrets. A serene Shangri La, sheltered by the palms and caressed by the sea. 

Karama Crazy!!



Bargain hunting in Dubai... Feels very
much like a covert operation!

So Emma and I took a shopping trip to Dubai last month. If you have ever been to Dubai, you can't help but be either fascinated (or in some cases replused) by this fashionable and sophisticated city in the desert. The Middle East's shopping and fashion capital!  Dubai is home to two of the largest malls in the Middle East, Dubai Mall and Mall of the Emirates. Dubai Mall famous for it's aquarium and Mall of the emirates infamous for it's indoor skiing slope. In terms of shops, you can find anything! From the high street stores like H&M and  Top Shop to the opulant fashion houses of Versace, Michael Kors and Gucci. You'll find them all in Dubai.

Where're the shoes?

Despite this, Emma and I were in Dubai for,  one very special reason. We wanted to find the illusive Karama! The home of imitation designer products We jumped in a taxi at Mall of the Emirates and asked him to take us to Karama. One of the best things about Dubai is that all the taxis are metred (and cheap!!). It cost us 70 Dirham (about 14e) to get to Karama. It is worth noting that on Fridays, the shops at Karama do not start to open until after 3pm. The area of Karama is a series of small shops selling copies of designer goods. The copies are still expensive. However, they are still a fraction of the cost of the real thing. An imitation Michael Kors bag, for example cost about 400 Dirham (80 euro) which is still a fraction of the price you would pay at the mall. 





Who knew that behind

        this door you'd find...

But Emma wanted to get shoes. And all we could find were bag shop upon bag shop. We kept asking people in the different shops where the shoe shops were until finally, one guy told us to follow him. We followed him out of the shop, down the road to a tall building. We went up a lift, (at this point we were more than a little Scooby dubious as to where he was leading us to!) and got out on the second floor. The second floor was a long, white corridor with doors off it. The man knocked on one of the doors and you could hear bolts being opened inside. (Yep, the fear of being sold into a particular profession was high!) Emma and I looked at each other nervously and went in.

...All of this!

We were both pleasantly surprised when we went inside and were greeted by what could only described as a secret showroom of thousands of handbags, shoes, belts and other accessories. The apartment was tastefully decorated with chandelliers, chairs and display case upon display case of illuminated handbags and shoes. There were many efficient sales attendants there to help with queries on sizes and colours. Emma and I were there for about two hours wandering around the different rooms off the main showroom. The show room was home to  D&G,  Mulberry, Michael Kors, Chanel and Dior copies to name but a few. Bargaining is expected here so don't be shy! Emma got a gorgeous pair of red, imitation,Versace heels and a pair of  Michael Kors ballet pumps for a really good price. It is important to remember that these are imitation so do not spend too much on those coveted heels!

When we were finished browsing around this strange show room, we paid for Emma's shoes and left through the big white door. The door was bolted behind us. We just stood there for a second or two completely incredulous of the accesssory wonder land that we had just been privy too. A very strange but memorable experience!



Emma's Versace heels!





 

 

 



Adam's Peak, Sri Lanka

Despite my smile, the decent was no easier!!

Every so often you do something on your travels  that makes you wonder, ''how is this a holiday?" You are sweaty. You are tired. You are out of breath. Old women are laughing at how unfit you are as they run down the side of the mountain in their bare feet. I wish that was a joke! Definitely not my finest hour! Days, months, even years later, as you sit on a sofa with a cup of tea and reminisce with your friends, you all agree that you are really glad you did it and it was definitely worth it.  For me, it was Adam's Peak.



The gate to the trek
 at 2.30am.

At 2am one cold April morning in Sri Lanka in 2012, I climbed out of bed groggy and immediately resentful of whoever's idea this was. Six of us met at the door of our small apartment-- Nyssa, Ciara, Karen, Michelle, Emma and I. Dervla had said the night before she would 'wait and see in the morning' and decided to opt out. It was not long into the (over) 5000 step incline before I wished I had had the same sense!

One of the (many) stops for tea!

There are a number of trails you can follow up the mountain and it is important to take note of your trail if you want to return back down the mountain the same way. At various points along the trek, we stopped for bananas, biscuits, ginger tea and water in the small make shift stalls that littered the ascent. Ginger tea helps with altitude sickness too. While the snacks were welcomed, it was these small breaks to catch our breath that really aided me. To be honest though, if it had not been for the encouragement of the girls, I definitely would not have gone to the top! We soon found out that the secret to completing the hike was to pacing yourself. Some of us took one step at a time, while others preferred to take the steps faster and then rest. It was exhausting! It is all fine until you see tiny, old, wizened women almost flying down the mountain laughing at you! Did I mention that there are over 5000 steps to the top? Calling them 'steps' is a little misleading. Yes, there are steps... in places. And the steps are over varying widths, depths and heights! And then there are some places where steps once were but have clearly been eroded away by all the pilgrims. But the point I am trying to make is that there are over 5000 steps of varying sizes and descriptions! You have been warned!  

Karen, Michelle, Ciara, me Nyssa and Emma at sunrise.

Adam's Peak is an important place of pilgrimage for Muslims, Hindus, Christians and Buddhists. Christians believe that this was the first place Adam's foot touched when he came to earth. At the summit, there is the concrete imprint of a foot. Many people que to walk around the shrine in their bare feet. The much revered shrine is decorated with multi-coloured bunting. (It was later described to Dervla as a 'Buddhist Knock'. )

Buddhist Pilgrims

The atmosphere at the peak is tranquil and harmonious. It is not often that a place can unite so many people of different faiths and beliefs. A more cynical observer would argue that the sense of serenity could quite possibly be down to the state of absolute exhaustion one feels at the pinnacle! Arriving just after 5.30 am, we were in a great position to watch the sun slowly creep shyly into the sky. The assembled crowd from very different backgrounds stood silently in awe. The sun painted the horizon with shades of rust and burnt orange as if it was growing in confidence with every head that turned to gaze at it's canvas until it finally splashed bold reds and oranges across the morning sky. It really was beautiful.

This picture belies how steep it was!

The descent was no easier but we could take it slower. By about 9.30 am we reached the village at the foot of the mountain. I have never felt so deserving of a sleep or a shower after an activity in my life.Every part of my body was aching, calling out for the soothing effects of some Tiger Balm and a bottle of beer! But there was no time for that. We were destined to spend the next week walking around like old women! We loaded up our bus for the next stop on our Sri Lankan tour, Kandy! 

I was really exotic with my
ginger hair and white skin!

You will need:

A light jumper (It is pretty cold when you get up at 2 am!);

Good walking/hiking shoes;

A camera;

Some small change for snacks;

Water;

Some good buddies to keep you motivated!

Travel Essential... Tiger Balm

People have often commented that when I go on holiday, I'm like a travelling pharmacy. There's nothing as bad feeling unwell and not having the right medication when you're travelling.

One item that I really can not live without with when I travel is my little pot of Tiger Balm. I discovered it when I lived in Bahrain and I can not remember what life was like before it.

I won't lie to you, it smells like jelly cola bottles and it will make your eyes water but you have no idea how many times this tiny jar of orange balm has come to my rescue. And it can be purchased very cheaply!

Tiger Balm can give relief from those pesky itchy mosquito bites. While it doesn't repel the insects, it does help sooth your incessant need to scratch! I also use Tiger Balm to get rid of spots. I put it on my temples, if for head ache relief and on my nose if it is blocked. You can even put it on your stomach if it is painful and cramping. Surely, that cuts down on some of the remedies you need to squeeze into your back pack?

A word of caution, however! Keep it well away from raw/ broken skin as, believe me, this is excruciating!

#travelblogger #travelessential #tigerbalm #itchy #mosquitoes

Picturesque Petra Part 2

Treasury by day.

After a wonderful sleep in the Petra Moon Hotel, I indulged in the sumptuous buffet down in the hotel's restaurant. After what I had experienced the night before in Petra, it felt like no trouble to be up before 8 am. I made the short journey by foot to the Petra Welcome Centre where I purchased my ticket. Tickets cost 50 Jordanian Dinar for the UNESCO World Heritage site. It is important to note that they only accept cash but an ATM is available across the road in the Movenpick Hotel.

While it was November when I visited Petra, it was still quiet hot in the early morning. It is best to go early before the tour buses come and before the temperature gets too high to make walking around bearable.

Horses scare me!

I was delighted that I had completed the night tour first, as when I began the trek the next morning, it felt like a completely different experience. I could now see the rose pink rock formation that Petra is famous for.

The first forty minutes of the journey is over gravel and concrete so as far as the Treasury is quite accessible for people using wheelchairs or children in buggies. You can also get a horse ride or carriage ride into the ancient city. Apparently, this is included in your ticket but the guides still expect a tip of a euro or two.

Initial glimpse of the Treasury.



The picture on the left was taken just as I was about to get my first experience of the rose rocked city in the daylight. It captures the sense of excitement and anticipation I felt as I walked down the ravine towards the city. Carved into the rocks of the ravine are ancient aqua conduits. In ancient times they were the life line of the city and it is amazing to see that they are still in perfect condition.

At the end of this series of aqua conduits, you are confronted with the breathtaking Treasury. The building is an incredible feat to ancient masonry, with each pillar and door frame skillfully cut from the rock. It really is beautiful. You are not allowed into the building but you are allowed to take pictures. Bedouins (nomadic people from the area) will offer you camel and horse rides (of course, at a good tourist's fee) from here to the Monastery .

Tea break with some Bedouin girls
 and two American guys I met. 

The morning was so beautiful that I decided  to take the longer path to the Monastery via the High Place of Sacrifice. Be warned, however, that the incline is very steep. I wouldn't advise it to anyone who is nervous of heights. Along the way up, Bedouin woman have set up there stalls, selling hand made jewellery. At one point, three girls asked me to their stall to have tea and sheisha with them. This was just one example of the hospitality and genuine friendliness I encountered as a solo traveller. One of the American guys I met, Jake, completed the rest of the trek with me.

The climb up to the High Place of Sacrifice.

The view from the High Place of Sacrifice was beautiful. You can see the ancient city for miles in every direction. It is very peaceful up there too. Not many tourists go up there as people are mostly concerned with getting to the Monastery. It adds a few hours to the hike but is definitely worth it. The trail continues back down the mountain and you can stop on the way to explore the many rooms and buildings etched into the mountain side. I do not think the guide books or reviews has prepared me for the sheer scale of the city. Once back on the main track to the Monastery, you have a welcome break to the slopes. Enjoy it because once you start the hike to the Monastery the climb is relentless. Just before you start the climb, there are toilets, places to eat and drink as well as the option of taking donkey up the mountain. For me, the idea of a donkey on these narrow, steep paths was terrifying so I decided to walk. If if had not been for my American buddy I had met earlier in the day, I definitely would have given up! You do need a certain level of fitness as the steps are steep and by the time you get this far, the day has heated up.

A resting camel with the immense
ancient city in the background.

Sweat, steps and goats!

Unfortunately, I was more concerned with not collapsing of exhaustion than taking photos so I do not have many pictures of the way up. To be honest though, sometimes pictures do not suffice in capturing an experience. It was so beautiful! Finally, after an hour of hiking, we reached the Monastery. It amazes me still how such a building was constructed in such a remote area up a mountain. As a reward for myself (and a thank you to Jake for listening to me moan the whole way up) I bought us two bottles of Bavaria. Tourist trap (or local opportunism at it's best), the two bottles cost the equivalent of 12 euro. After remarking that it was definitely the best beer we had both ever tasted we realised that it was, in fact, non alcoholic! Unsurprisingly, the trek back down the mountain took less time than the way up. I was back at my hotel by 1.30 pm in plenty of time to get the 3pm Jett bus back to Amman for my next Jordanian adventure. Petra had been an unforgettable experience.

At the Monastery!

You will need:
A light weight bag pack;
Good walking shoes/hiking boots;
A camera;
Sun glasses and hat;
Water (drinks are available inside but are very expensive);
Sun cream.

Travel Essential... Sun Cream!

How many times have you regretted not applying sun screen? How many times have you just put on sun screen, only to wash it all off five minutes later in the pool? How many times have you said "O I'll only be out in it for five minutes," and then proceed to get burnt to a crisp?

Guilty, guilty, guilty!! I'll be honest, I have not always been the kindest to my skin in the sun. (There was even a horrendous experiment with my friend's tanning oil that resulted in me spending a few days with a bucket of ice on  my legs!!!) However, at some point in the last few years, I realised that I was never meant to be a bronzed goddess. A sallow skinned ginge?! Even if that was to be the case, it still does not mean that my skin does not need protection from the sun.

For a few years now, I have used the same brand of sun cream by Piz Buin. I love it because it is not greasy and it is very easy to apply. You can purchase it as both a spray and a cream. As long as I apply it, I never get burnt. Even out here, in the heat of Oman, one application is perfect for an afternoon on the beach. Piz Buin also comes in a number of factors and contains UV protection. The thing that I love the most about it, is it's smell! It just smells like holidays and happiness!

So if you are a (wannabe) bronzed goddess or just out for a walk in the sunshine, remember that taking a few minutes to put on your Piz Buin is a much better option than looking like a lobster and feeling like your skin is on fire. And that is the best case scenario!

#pizbuin #travelessential #skincare #sunprotection

New Beginnings at the River

On my last full day in Jordan, I left Amman and headed south of the city to visit the River Jordan. The area surrounding the River Jordan is an area that has long intrigued me. The river acts as a territorial boundary between Jordan on the east and Israel on the west bank. In the Middle East, Israel is staunchly referred to as the Occupied Territories of Palestine. For Christians the world over, the River Jordan has vital religious significance. The Bible records that Jesus Christ was baptised in the waters of the River Jordan by his cousin, John the Baptist. This moment at the River Jordan was a new departure in Christianity.

 Baptism of Jesus Christ

At the baptism site's welcome centre, I paid a fee of 12 Jordanian Dinar (approx. 12 euro) and got a small mini bus with some other tourists.  We first passed a beautiful Roman Catholic Church that was built on the banks of the River Jordan. From here, we walked to the baptism site. The area itself is peaceful and serene with just the gentle sway of the rushes in the breeze. The baptism site is fashioned similar to a boat slip way but in the shape of a cross, the symbol of Christianity. The area was dug out like this after the baptism of Jesus. In the time of John the Baptist, this area of was filled with water.  A procession took place down the steps (see picture on left) and to the water of the River Jordan. There are the ruins of two churches on the site which were also built after the time of Jesus.  What does survive, however, are a number of beautiful mosaics showing the story of the baptism of Jesus.

This cross-shaped area used to be filled with water. This is where the baptisms
were performed.

Israeli flag flying across the river.

 On our way down to the River Jordan, our guide told us that under no circumstances were we to interact with the soldiers of 'Occupied Palestine' across the river.  I really do not know what I was expecting but in a small clearing in the rushes there were decking and and some steps down into the river where an elderly lady was bathing. Apparently, it is not uncommon for devout Christians to bathe in the sacred river in order to treat various ailments. The area where the woman was bathing was shallow in depth but interestingly boxed off by some wooden beams. As I allowed my gaze to travel around the area, I noticed that there were red and yellow striped poles in the middle of the river. The tour guide informed us that that was the line of demarcation between Jordan and 'Occupied Palestine'.  Beyond this imaginary boundary was Israel. I stood there in awe for a few moments incredulous that I was this close to such a controversial and turbulent area of the world. I was less than thirty metres away. As the guides told us, two soldiers yielding rifles stood on the steps on the Israeli side of the river. Despite this, I never felt threatened or nervous. The Israeli side of the river had stone steps and from it's flag poll, the famous blue and white of the Star of David flag.

Picture taken by the Iraqi brothers
 at the River Jordan. You can make out the
Israeli flag in the background.

Just then two men in their thirties approached me and asked would I like a picture standing in front of the River Jordan. I thanked them and they took the picture. On the way back to the bus, I chatted to the two of them. The younger one with the American accent exuded confidence and was very talkative while the older one seemed like a more reserved character with a broken English accent. When I asked where they were from, the younger one told me that he lived in the United States and had done for the last ten years. At this point, the older one spoke up and told me that they were brothers. In 2003, they both had been forced to flee their home country of Iraq because of the war that was ravaging the country. The younger brother fled to the United States while the older brother fled to the United Kingdom. Ten years later they were finally reunited in Jordan. Neither of them had set foot in Iraq since the day the fled. I can not convey in words how much their story touched me. When I asked them how it felt to meet up after so the younger one, who clearly had assimilated into American culture seamlessly, laughed and said it felt 'awesome'. The quieter brother just shook his head and said it was like a new beginning.

The Biblical Baptism Site

 For me, the River Jordan and the baptism site was an amazing experience and I think if you travel to Jordan, whether you are religious or not, it is definitely worth a visit. It is an area of land that is steeped in history, biblical and political. An intense sense of  spirituality and serenity permeates even the most sceptical mind at the River Jordan. Ironically or maybe typically, at the epicentre of one of the world's most tumultuous regions.