New Beginnings at the River

On my last full day in Jordan, I left Amman and headed south of the city to visit the River Jordan. The area surrounding the River Jordan is an area that has long intrigued me. The river acts as a territorial boundary between Jordan on the east and Israel on the west bank. In the Middle East, Israel is staunchly referred to as the Occupied Territories of Palestine. For Christians the world over, the River Jordan has vital religious significance. The Bible records that Jesus Christ was baptised in the waters of the River Jordan by his cousin, John the Baptist. This moment at the River Jordan was a new departure in Christianity.

 Baptism of Jesus Christ

At the baptism site's welcome centre, I paid a fee of 12 Jordanian Dinar (approx. 12 euro) and got a small mini bus with some other tourists.  We first passed a beautiful Roman Catholic Church that was built on the banks of the River Jordan. From here, we walked to the baptism site. The area itself is peaceful and serene with just the gentle sway of the rushes in the breeze. The baptism site is fashioned similar to a boat slip way but in the shape of a cross, the symbol of Christianity. The area was dug out like this after the baptism of Jesus. In the time of John the Baptist, this area of was filled with water.  A procession took place down the steps (see picture on left) and to the water of the River Jordan. There are the ruins of two churches on the site which were also built after the time of Jesus.  What does survive, however, are a number of beautiful mosaics showing the story of the baptism of Jesus.

This cross-shaped area used to be filled with water. This is where the baptisms
were performed.

Israeli flag flying across the river.

 On our way down to the River Jordan, our guide told us that under no circumstances were we to interact with the soldiers of 'Occupied Palestine' across the river.  I really do not know what I was expecting but in a small clearing in the rushes there were decking and and some steps down into the river where an elderly lady was bathing. Apparently, it is not uncommon for devout Christians to bathe in the sacred river in order to treat various ailments. The area where the woman was bathing was shallow in depth but interestingly boxed off by some wooden beams. As I allowed my gaze to travel around the area, I noticed that there were red and yellow striped poles in the middle of the river. The tour guide informed us that that was the line of demarcation between Jordan and 'Occupied Palestine'.  Beyond this imaginary boundary was Israel. I stood there in awe for a few moments incredulous that I was this close to such a controversial and turbulent area of the world. I was less than thirty metres away. As the guides told us, two soldiers yielding rifles stood on the steps on the Israeli side of the river. Despite this, I never felt threatened or nervous. The Israeli side of the river had stone steps and from it's flag poll, the famous blue and white of the Star of David flag.

Picture taken by the Iraqi brothers
 at the River Jordan. You can make out the
Israeli flag in the background.

Just then two men in their thirties approached me and asked would I like a picture standing in front of the River Jordan. I thanked them and they took the picture. On the way back to the bus, I chatted to the two of them. The younger one with the American accent exuded confidence and was very talkative while the older one seemed like a more reserved character with a broken English accent. When I asked where they were from, the younger one told me that he lived in the United States and had done for the last ten years. At this point, the older one spoke up and told me that they were brothers. In 2003, they both had been forced to flee their home country of Iraq because of the war that was ravaging the country. The younger brother fled to the United States while the older brother fled to the United Kingdom. Ten years later they were finally reunited in Jordan. Neither of them had set foot in Iraq since the day the fled. I can not convey in words how much their story touched me. When I asked them how it felt to meet up after so the younger one, who clearly had assimilated into American culture seamlessly, laughed and said it felt 'awesome'. The quieter brother just shook his head and said it was like a new beginning.

The Biblical Baptism Site

 For me, the River Jordan and the baptism site was an amazing experience and I think if you travel to Jordan, whether you are religious or not, it is definitely worth a visit. It is an area of land that is steeped in history, biblical and political. An intense sense of  spirituality and serenity permeates even the most sceptical mind at the River Jordan. Ironically or maybe typically, at the epicentre of one of the world's most tumultuous regions.  

Picturesque Petra* Part 1

I always said that if there was one place I really wanted to visit while I was in the Middle East it was Petra in Jordan. I travelled down to Petra (possibly the most expensive way) with a private driver. It cost about 60 euro for the privilege of my own driver and the car was very comfortable for the two hour journey. I only had four days to see everything I wanted to see in Jordan so this was the most efficient way to get down to the ancient city. Cut from rose coloured rocks, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Petra is famous for both its archaeological and historical importance and I was about to appreciate what all the fuss was about!

The small village at the gates of Petra.

I checked into the gorgeous Petra Moon Hotel in the small town of Petra. The hotel's friendly staff made me feel very welcome. The room itself was tastefully decorated and it really surpassed my expectations. 

My room had a queen sized bed with a lovely clean en suite. There was a mini bar, stacked with free soft drinks and water and a bowl of fruit on the table. Before I went to bed, a man came around with bars of chocolate for me! The total price for two nights at the hotel was 60 euro. This included a sumptuous buffet breakfast both mornings! The proximity to the gates of Petra and the Jett bus station only added to my satisfaction with the hotel.  

Thousands of these illuminated the way.

 ''The Petra by Night Experience'' cost 12 euro (available from the hotel's reception) and met at the Petra Welcome Centre at 7pm. This is conveniently located a five minute walk from the Petra Moon Hotel. You walk with a group of around one hundred people, led by the Bedouin people who run the tour. Strategically placed night lights illuminated the otherwise dark pathway. The small tea lights were placed inside brown paper bags that had sand in the bottom. These had a doubly haunting and dream like effect on everyone as the anticipation of the arrival at the iconic Treasury building grew. The walk took about forty minutes, at times on a gravely path and other times on a cement walkway. In the darkness, I could just about make out the craggy rock faces of the canyon. As one girl I walked with said to me on the way down, ''Who knew you could get this excited about rock formation?" But is was very true. 

On arrival at the Treasury, we were asked to sit down on mats and listen to the enchanting  music of the Bedouin people on their traditional instruments. Arabic coffee (of course!) was given to everyone as we sat, rapt by the music. Thousands of of small night lights danced rhythmically to the song of the instruments, casting shadows on the Treasury.

The Treasury.
Such a haunting image.

At one point, as we sat there, the Bedouin leader invited the assembled group of tourists to put their flashes on their cameras, point their cameras in the direction of the Treasury, count to three and take a picture.The picture on the left is the result. As beautiful as it is, it still fails to capture the sense of peace one feels in the haunting presence of this ancient building. 

Without doubt the "Petra by Night Experience" was my favourite part of my trip to Jordan. I was not expecting it and if anything it whetted my appetite to see the rest of Petra the next day. 

*I'm an English teacher so I'm allowed some alliteration... Even if it does make you cringe!