New Beginnings at the River

On my last full day in Jordan, I left Amman and headed south of the city to visit the River Jordan. The area surrounding the River Jordan is an area that has long intrigued me. The river acts as a territorial boundary between Jordan on the east and Israel on the west bank. In the Middle East, Israel is staunchly referred to as the Occupied Territories of Palestine. For Christians the world over, the River Jordan has vital religious significance. The Bible records that Jesus Christ was baptised in the waters of the River Jordan by his cousin, John the Baptist. This moment at the River Jordan was a new departure in Christianity.

 Baptism of Jesus Christ

At the baptism site's welcome centre, I paid a fee of 12 Jordanian Dinar (approx. 12 euro) and got a small mini bus with some other tourists.  We first passed a beautiful Roman Catholic Church that was built on the banks of the River Jordan. From here, we walked to the baptism site. The area itself is peaceful and serene with just the gentle sway of the rushes in the breeze. The baptism site is fashioned similar to a boat slip way but in the shape of a cross, the symbol of Christianity. The area was dug out like this after the baptism of Jesus. In the time of John the Baptist, this area of was filled with water.  A procession took place down the steps (see picture on left) and to the water of the River Jordan. There are the ruins of two churches on the site which were also built after the time of Jesus.  What does survive, however, are a number of beautiful mosaics showing the story of the baptism of Jesus.

This cross-shaped area used to be filled with water. This is where the baptisms
were performed.

Israeli flag flying across the river.

 On our way down to the River Jordan, our guide told us that under no circumstances were we to interact with the soldiers of 'Occupied Palestine' across the river.  I really do not know what I was expecting but in a small clearing in the rushes there were decking and and some steps down into the river where an elderly lady was bathing. Apparently, it is not uncommon for devout Christians to bathe in the sacred river in order to treat various ailments. The area where the woman was bathing was shallow in depth but interestingly boxed off by some wooden beams. As I allowed my gaze to travel around the area, I noticed that there were red and yellow striped poles in the middle of the river. The tour guide informed us that that was the line of demarcation between Jordan and 'Occupied Palestine'.  Beyond this imaginary boundary was Israel. I stood there in awe for a few moments incredulous that I was this close to such a controversial and turbulent area of the world. I was less than thirty metres away. As the guides told us, two soldiers yielding rifles stood on the steps on the Israeli side of the river. Despite this, I never felt threatened or nervous. The Israeli side of the river had stone steps and from it's flag poll, the famous blue and white of the Star of David flag.

Picture taken by the Iraqi brothers
 at the River Jordan. You can make out the
Israeli flag in the background.

Just then two men in their thirties approached me and asked would I like a picture standing in front of the River Jordan. I thanked them and they took the picture. On the way back to the bus, I chatted to the two of them. The younger one with the American accent exuded confidence and was very talkative while the older one seemed like a more reserved character with a broken English accent. When I asked where they were from, the younger one told me that he lived in the United States and had done for the last ten years. At this point, the older one spoke up and told me that they were brothers. In 2003, they both had been forced to flee their home country of Iraq because of the war that was ravaging the country. The younger brother fled to the United States while the older brother fled to the United Kingdom. Ten years later they were finally reunited in Jordan. Neither of them had set foot in Iraq since the day the fled. I can not convey in words how much their story touched me. When I asked them how it felt to meet up after so the younger one, who clearly had assimilated into American culture seamlessly, laughed and said it felt 'awesome'. The quieter brother just shook his head and said it was like a new beginning.

The Biblical Baptism Site

 For me, the River Jordan and the baptism site was an amazing experience and I think if you travel to Jordan, whether you are religious or not, it is definitely worth a visit. It is an area of land that is steeped in history, biblical and political. An intense sense of  spirituality and serenity permeates even the most sceptical mind at the River Jordan. Ironically or maybe typically, at the epicentre of one of the world's most tumultuous regions.